New England clam chowder (Massachusetts)

CLAM CHOWDER
While no trip to Boston is complete without a proper bowl of clam chowder, it's not fair to hand this one to Massachusetts alone — or to pretend that chowder is any one thing.

Bob Fila  /  Chicago Tribune via KRT
Clam chowder — as good in a cup as in a bowl.
The original etymology is thought to be French, from chaudière (cauldron), perhaps passed along by French fishermen who crossed the Atlantic in colonial times. In his book “50 Chowders,” Boston chef Jasper White traces the first recipe to a 1751 edition of the Boston Evening Post. However, that soup not only neglects to mention clams but fish at all. Its basic foundation was salt pork and onions, followed by spices and soaked biscuits.
Cod or bass were added in by the end of the 18th century, but not until the mid-1800s do clams begin to appear in recipes, and the milk — now considered an essential component — didn't appear until the 1860s or so.
The formula was cast by the early 20th century, though the creamy classic occasionally vied for competition with tomato-based Manhattan clam chowder. (Not, in fact, from Manhattan.)
The clam of choice is usually the Eastern variety known as a quahog (CO-hog), with a shell thicker than three inches; its meaty insides help give chowder a briny kick.  Smaller clams of the same type, Mercenaria mercenaria, are better known as littlenecks or cherrystones and not usually used for chowder.
A proper chowder is deep and aromatic, with layered flavors atop a porky foundation. Between the Red Sox finally winning, and all that chowder, I'd warn residents of Boston to expect a flood of visitors who won't leave. And I'm not talking about Harvard students.
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